The Best Dishes at Smokestack, Dogpatch's New BBQ ShrineBy Virginia Miller | May 15, 2014 By Virginia Miller | May 15, 2014
Following our pre-opening sneak peek into the kitchen at Dave McLean's Smokestack in the Dogpatch, now it's time to pass on some of our early favorite dishes on the menu from Dennis Lee (who is also chef-owner of Namu Gaji). We have one word for you: brisket. We've road-tripped for weeks through the South to "study" regional 'cue and sauces, so after two visits to Smokestack, we confidently proclaim this as destination-worthy brisket. Lee's brisket is appropriately fatty, thick-cut, fall-apart tender, with a perfectly crusted skin - it's a lot like the fatty-fabulous brisket we remember loving at Uncle Frank's in Mountain View before it closed in 2011, but Lee uses top-quality Waygu beef. We can't help but elicit a sigh of delight with each bite.
But we shouldn't let the brisket steal all the thunder. Lee's menu focuses on barbecue styles from Kansas City, through the Carolinas, down to Texas, and then peppers in Asian accents. Flavor possibilities range from kimchi BBQ sauce to South Carolina-inspired Dijon mustard sauce to North Carolina-style vinegar sauce. The beers from McLean, who also owns a little place called Magnolia Gastropub in the Haight, are always exceptional. There are cask-conditioned, hand-pulled brews along with a stellar spirits selection and cocktails from bar manager Eric Quilty. (Look out for our cocktail highlights coming next week.) For now, you should plan time to head down to the airy-cool space and get in line for some of the most exciting BBQ in town. Visit daily from 4 PM to 12 AM. But first, have a look through our food and interior highlights below. 2505 Third St.; 415-864-7468