Why We Love Traci Des Jardins' The Commissary in the PresidioBy Virginia Miller | August 20, 2014 By Virginia Miller | August 20, 2014
Open May 20 in the Presidio, Traci Des Jardins' The Commissary is housed in a former army mess hall in the Montgomery Street Barracks (circa 1895 - pictured above). The multi-room space is marked by tabletops made from salvaged Douglas fir and lights from the historic, nearby former army gymnasium. Robbie Lewis, who cooked at Rubicon and was the executive chef of Des Jardins' Jardiniere for eight years, is the culinary director. You'll see him behind the chef's counter, which is our preferred seat over the bustling, open kitchen. Executive chef Reylon Agustin also worked with Des Jardins at Jardiniere and her Truckee restaurant, Manzanita in the Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe.
The menu is heavily Spanish, showcasing common tapas favorites - albondigas, octopus/pulpo, croquetas - as well as creative dishes with California flair. Cocktails were created by GM Malcolm Brownson, most recently of Nico. Brownson also put together a vibrant wine list heavy on Spanish wines and California wines using Spanish varietals, a few craft beers and sangria. There's light dine-in and take-out breakfast and lunch during the day, but we'll walk you through standouts on the current dinner menu. The dishes here are already making a mark, so watch for Des Jardins' and the Presidio Trust's next restaurant and bar, Arguello, set to open October 7. For maximum fun, stay overnight in the park at Inn at the Presidio and stroll across the lawn to The Commissary for dinner and breakfast the next morning.
101 Montgomery St.; 415-561-3600