The Inn at Langley
Why It’s Cool: The 11-course set tasting menu at the Inn is somewhere between haute cuisine and perfectly choreographed performance art. Dinner here is a compelling three-hour show served on stunning tableware against a backdrop of chef Matt Costello’s display kitchen and the luxurious lodge-style decor of the intimate dining room.
Must-Order: With their tongues firmly in their cheeks, the team serves black cod covered with "camouflage" (in reality, shards of kale and squid ink) and a "raw egg" made with coconut and mango, and they flourish smoke-filled glass domes over the duck breast to add subtle notes of cinnamon and cloves. The little decorative terrariums hanging above our heads turned out to house one of the desserts, and all the elements of "Grandma’s Handbag," from the lipstick through the coins to the wadded-up tissues, turned out to be delightfully edible.
But it’s not just showmanship. Costello’s flavor combinations are superb, especially the masterly way he combines sweet and savory, and the cooking exemplary — the succulent black cod and melt-in-the-mouth Kagoshima beef will long remain in our memories. And the favorite course might just have been the perfectly tender buttermilk biscuit, served with softly whipped bacon fat and a delicate plum preserve — salty, sweet and oh so good.
Insider Tip: The wine pairings, featuring unusual local and international wines, are generous and truly add an extra dimension to the meal, though a glass of bubbly is included in the meal price.
400 First St., Langley; 360-221-3033