Los Angeles: Focaccia di Recco at Chi Spacca
You've probably heard about the massive 40-oz. bistecca or tomahawk pork chop at the Mozza sibling, two gorgeous huge hunks of meat kissed by flames on the open grill. But we can't stop thinking about the focaccia di Recco, one of the most utterly delicious things we've tasted all year. As the story goes, Nancy Silverton discovered this crackerlike bread stuffed with cheese on a trip to Italy and asked Chi Spacca's chef Chad Colby to help recreate it.
After many attempts, the only way he could get it right was by traveling to Recco himself, where he learned how to make the dough: it's just flour, water and salt; stretch it until it's paper-thin, and fold it over balls of a cow's milk cheese, sort of like stracchino, made by Silverton's burrata supplier. And he tracked down the pan, a hand-hammered metal disk that allows the thing to crisp just so. All together, it's simplicity at its finest, which is why it was so difficult: simple isn't easy. The focaccia comes out of the oven hot and bubbly, with cheese woven into every bite. It's best piping hot - not that we'd turn down a cold slice, either. It's so good, so addictive, there's no stopping once you take a first bite.