John Besh's "rarified" CBD flagship is a "masterpiece" whose "beautiful" , "Gone With the Wind" –style interior and "invisible but omnipresent" staff set the scene for a "genuine dining experience" focused around a "wonderfully creative" French menu with a "NOLA twist" (it also boasts "sublime" wine pairings); the "cost is high" for the "memorable experience" , but fans say it's "worth the splurge" ; P.S. Friday lunch is a "great deal."